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France Reims, France - Tuesday, May 24 John: Well, we've worked our way a bit south now... into France. A very simple border station.... the road, entering France near Givet, isn't very well traveled. A few cars here and there. Since we're on bicycle, we didn't want to head through Paris, so we're skirting it's presence to the east. Now, having crossed the border and traveling for a bit, we sit in a little park in Reims, France. And, we're eating some french bread and yogurt.
So, we're right next to what we have learned is a major French cathedral, and it's called, appropriately enough, the Reims Cathedral. And, it is pretty monstrous, ay Dick? Dick: Quite impressive. The sculptures outside must have taken years and years to complete.
Geographically, this is close to the center of Champagne Country so... earlier, we took the obligatory tour of the Mumm's Champagne plant right here in Reims. They make the champagne underground in these cool caves. Cool meaning not warm, not meaning cool as in cool. The tour was completely in French. My mind was wandering but the tour guide kept staring at me, so I felt obligated to be fairly alert. These Reims' drivers are terrible! They tailgate and drive extremely fast. They also park crazy... like that car over there. Look at that! One front wheel is up on the curb. It's half on the curb, half off. There are no parking rules. Dick: I thought you were going to lose it there for a second when we were riding. John: You mean when my bike spun out and I fell to the ground? I think I hit a slick spot from the drizzle. Dick: Yeah, I slowed down and moved to center of the road to keep that truck back while you recovered.
"Champagne Country", France -
Wednesday, May 26 John: Okay, another day of riding is done and under our belt. Here we are in the woods ditched off the side of the road. We have setup an ad hoc camp. We're somewhere in Champagne Country, who knows what town. We're in the woods, that's where we are. I carried a gallon of water for five miles on the back of the bike so we can cook something. And, now the water's boiling and Dick is the cook of the night, if not the trip. Dick being a vegetarian and a cook. What's on the menu, Dick? Dick: Well, this evening for your cuisinary delight we are having... to begin with little noodles. Where'd they go? Where are the noodles!!?
Dick: Oh, we have to find the noodles... but we are having noodles. And, we're having a little tomato sauce and... where are the lentils. Everything's falling apart! John: I think we will also have some "haricots" beans and perhaps some "cafe" without the "lait" this evening. And of course, we have the "Vin de Pays" table wine from here in the north of France. Can't beat it. What more could you ask for? Here are the noodles. Dick: Thank goodness.
John: We had a beautiful downhill today between Epernay and Reims winding through the champagne vineyards. There were all kinds of little religious statues guarding the crops. And a mega-downhill. Put your head down and cruise! Did you like that one? Dick: Yes, (grunt)... magnificent. Opening the wine now... (POP) Voila! John: The map says we're in the "Pays de Burgundy" now. "Pays" is the county or something. We will head south towards the bottom of the map, which is the French Riviera. And I guess we're immediately heading to Dijon... just because it's south and we heard of it. Dijon being the place the mustard was named for. As good a direction as any to go on the way down to the Riviera.
Troyes, France
- Thursday, May 27
John: Well, a miserable day of riding. Through the rain. And, we are now fed up with northern France. Dick: It was just a drizzle... John: ...And the wind was in our faces and it was raining. So, we detoured from our destination of Dijon towards the closest town with a train station. And we are now in Troyes, because it has rail transportation and we can immediately get out of the weather and train down to the Riviera. Otherwise it would be another day just to get to Dijon, mustard or not.
Dick: Yes, we picked Toulon as a good geographical destination. John: You can look at only so many vines and this rain is really putting a damper on things... they say, though, that it never rains on the Riviera! What a pleasure that will be. Topless beaches, drinks through straws... I'm getting psyched. So... Dick, here we are in Troyes. And, and we're camped out in our very first hotel room. Are you impressed? Dick: No, I'm not impressed. Look at the paint peeling from the ceiling. This bed is falling apart. They give us only one giant pillow for two of us. And it's too stuffy in here. And, if you open the window all you get is diesel fumes. It's rush hour outside. The main street goes right by our window. Am I impressed? Nooo. I'm not impressed. John: The bathroom or "WC", as they call it here, is down the hall but we have our own personal bidet. I guess they stick them in every room. It's like a toilet bowl without a seat. I washed my clothes out in it. Heading to Toulon - Friday, May 28 John: I can't believe it! This train is jam-packed! I'm not even in the car actually. I'm in between two cars in the foyer, lying on the floor. There are bodies everywhere. I keep kicking this guy in the face, but I don't care.
Oh I think we're slowing... yeah, this is Dinant. It looks dark. It's the middle of the night. Hey, Dick! You're back. Dick: You were out here all the time? John: Yeah, of course, there was no room anywhere. Dick: No, not out here there isn't. Come inside, there's a spot in my compartment. John: You got into a compartment? Dick: Now I am. I was standing up talking to two French women, French girls for awhile. John: And here I was laying on a dirty floor. What did we call you in college, the Mixer?
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