Grime, Austria - Wednesday, July 21
Location:  WHILE RIDING

John:  Today marks nine weeks on the road.  We also passed the 2,000 mile mark today.  I'm riding now right next to the Danube River towards eastern Austria.  Dick is way behind, which is unusual.  I'm usually the one holding down the rear. 

It's very flat here on the north side of the river.  The river is extremely wide and will lead us directly into Vienna in about two days.  The immediate destination is the town of Krebs.  But, here we enter Sormonstein.

Riding ahead of us somewhere, is a German biker we met yesterday named Susammen.  We were kind of unnerved when she told us she was riding 200 kilometers a day, which is about 123 miles... an incredible distance.  She took off from the campground before us early this morning.  So we were kind of surprised when we caught up to her and she was riding at a rather leisurely pace.  But, then we saw her grab hold of the back of a truck and off she went.  Poof, she and the truck disappeared.  123 miles a day... I see. 

It's not always easy riding eight to ten hours a day.  There can be monotony and physical pressures.  Hills can take their toll.  I'm in a very good mood for the first time in a couple of days because the road is finally worth riding.  And the tailwinds, which we have today, make an incredible difference.  It's like cheating.  Things to look at... wooded forests on each side, houses, castles on hills, and churches with steeples.  A nice ride.

Dick and I have been discussing our routes.  He wants to eventually head towards the Eastern block countries... Yugoslavia, Czechoslovakia.  I'm more interested in a destination towards Scandinavia, first heading up to Berlin.  So, we decided that after we get to Munich, and pick up our mail at the home of a German girl we met on the Riviera, Dick and I will be heading separate ways.  I think we've both had enough experience riding as a pair, and we can get the feel of independence by riding alone.  When we biked cross the USA a few years ago, I finished alone after he went home from San Francisco.  In that trip, I eventually went down the Pacific Coast Highway all the way to the Mexican border.  I would have liked to keep going, but I didn't want to ride into Mexico, and the Pacific was to my right, the desert was to my left, and the winds were at my back.  I had no choice but to finish up.  Riding alone after getting comfortable with a routine is like spreading your wings. 

So, after we get to Munich... (CAR PASSES) Traffic is picking up... we split.  

Krems, Austria
Location:  WHILE RIDING

John:  Heading for Vienna, Austria.  It's dead ahead.  Vienna is spelled "Wien" here in Austria.  But, I think its still pronounced "Vien-Na".  We're  in the middle of farmland.  Farms to the right and to the left.  And look here, there's more corn and some hay.  Trees that look like olive trees, along the side of the road here.  So, later today we are going to see Vienna.

Vienna, Austria - Thursday, July 22
Location:  ON THE SUBWAY

John:  Those little chimes are announcing the next stop on the Vienna subway system. The trains are evidently free, although you're supposed to punch a machine to validate the tickets when you're on board.

It's quite a trustworthy system. No one ever checks to see if you did in fact punch it.

Dick:  So far, you're lucky they didn't check you the last few times.

John:  Well, this was my last trip so I did punch it this time.

Vienna, Austria - Friday, July 23
Location:  IN A BAR

John:  Well, we're here in... some local bar having, what do ya call it... a drink. And... at the next table there are locals singing songs and... we're just sitting here and er... drinking beer. (LAUGH) And we're escaping the rain too.  On the outside of this here... (BURP) excuse me... this bar has rain outside.  There's rain out there... yes, even Vienna is out there someplace.

The name of the place is... Cafe Verde.  Sort of a jazz bar, I guess you'd call it, ay Dick?

Dick:  Yes, it's a nice little cafe.  I'm enjoying the atmosphere. There are a couple of people around at the various tables.

John:  Yeah, various people at the... various tables.  Sort of a counterculture place we stumbled upon while escaping rain and in our search for Chinatown, which they say is in Vienna District 7...

Stranger:  Hello, gentlemen.  You men seem to be practically crying here.  Ready to bawl aren't you?  Come on over to our table and let me buy you boys a beer.  Come on.  You deserve a break, don't ya.  Did you notice I speak English?  You boys look as if you're about ready to cry.  Let me save you from yourselves.  I speak English as well as anyone.

John:  Yes, I noticed that.

Stranger: Come on over.  Meet my friends.  Let me buy you a beer.

John:  Well, okay.  I guess we'll go sit over there.  An interesting approach from him.  Come on...

LATER, AFTER THE VISIT

John:  We joined him and one woman and two other men.  They were grinning noticeably.  We learned his name was Colin and is known to be quite a character.

Dick:  He proceeded to insult us.  He made us guess where he was from, saying it was the greatest nation on earth.  We couldn't guess and he kept insulting us.  Finally John guessed he was from Scotland.  We were then pulled into this conversation upon which Colin made known his hatred for Irishmen.  And, let's see, a few hard feelings there between he and the Irish.  He said that if they went up to Glasgow they'd be beaten with pipes and stabbed with knives.  And then who should happen to sit down at our table but two Irishman. 

John:  Yeah, that was freaky.

Dick:  He did not disguise his disgust for the Irish and started to verbally jab the two of them.  Then he started up a little political discussion about the whole thing.  There were some pent up hostilities, to make a long story short.  But fortunately, the Irish guys calmed the mood by singing ditties.  Although they didn't intentionally sing for the purpose of calming.  This more or less rectified the situation.  After that Colin bought them some wine and they became friends.  He said that Vienna was a very nice place and perhaps he would like to die here.

****

Sunday, July 25
Location:  ON THE TRAIN

John:  Well, we left Vienna merely moments ago and now, if we cared to number our physical moves, we'd be in Step 18 or so.  Strategic move here... we were caught in a dead end down there in the end of Austria, in Vienna surrounded by the Eastern Block, biking back towards Salzburg would have taken us another five days so ...as you might be able to hear in the background... we're on a train heading back to Salzburg. For only 18 dollars, more or less, we've saved five days travel time.  We'll stay in Salzburg tonight.  Tomorrow we can ride off to Munich which should take about two days. 

Salzburg, Austria
Location:  IN DOORWAY ESCAPING RAIN

John:  Frankly Dick, I'm getting pissed off.  We're here in Salzburg outside on the street underneath a ledge in the main music mall and... it's pouring on us.  That makes seven or eight days in a row that it has rained.

Dick:  This is true.  We left Salzburg about a week ago because it was raining and didn't want to stay another day here.  We headed out on the road.  Each and every day we were out it was either cloudy or rainy or drizzly and here we are back in Salzburg and it's raining again.  I can understand your frustrations.

John:   It's the salt, I tell you.  We head tomorrow for Germany.  Maybe it won't rain tomorrow.  I don't know, it doesn't seem like the rain is every going to go away.

It may be a problem getting back to the "campingplatz".  Maybe we can find a cafe or bar to hang out in until the rain stops.  There's a guy playing the violin down there on a little stage.  And there must be at least 20 people under assorted ledges listening while the rain pounds.  There's a guy doing handstands on the other side of the mall.  There was a lot of music going on before it started to rain.  One guy was singing along with a sort of bluesy type of guitar with another guy.  Quite entertaining type of guy.  Sort of a Bohemian type younger crowd.  But in Salzburg, it would seem a violin is more appropriate.